Hazy Sunrise As August Wanes

6:54

Long Point State Park

Dinner on Zebro's Outdoor Patio, Barcelona, NY, Lake Erie

Sun Setting Over Lake Erie

Up at 5:45 to the sound of bass boats once again but when I got down stairs, there were none to be seen.  However, I did find out that there is a major fishing tournament, Jack Link's Major League Fishing,  going on this week, many staying at the CI, one that includes TV coverage, to be shown next winter.  Twenty four of the US's best anglers are invited and from the sounds this morning, many of them raced by our dock.  The sky was a pinkish gray when I got up, staying that way until about 6:50 when the sun started to rise and turn the skyline orange.  It's 55 degrees outside,  much warmer than yesterday morning, hotter today as well.

Yesterday was another, yes, perfect day at the lake, sunny but not too warm, with a nice breeze.  We started it off with our 'new new thing,' a kayak paddle over to Long Point, than a hike around the State Park.  What a great way to start the day.  Instead of jumping in the car and driving over to Bemus, we just paddle our kayaks over that way, eventually pull up somewhere on Long Point, then walk through the various paths in the woods.  Our walk usually takes at least an hour or more, and we paddle a total of thirty to forty minutes, so we get a good workout as well as the beauty of being on the lake, walking in the wood, two of our favorite things to do.

Later in the morning, I took off to Jamestown to renew my passport which had expired.  From what I could find out online, I could go down to the Jamestown Post Office to get it done.  I got there and enquired about the passport office and the post clerk said she didn't think anyone was in that day!  I then talked to another clerk, who said she would get some one.  When I mentioned I would need a picture, she said the camera was broken but  I could go to Triple A and get a picture done.  I said I would and be back shortly.  I rushed over to Triple A, got my picture taken, went back and was told the gal who does passports went to help out at another post office.  This is our postal system at its best.  So, I then went to City Hall, where I was helped out, given the forms, filled them out, told how where to send them, and went on my way, a mostly wasted morning.  I then went to Wegman's, to get things for our Saturday dinner, as our good friend Vi Buck and a friend our coming for the day.  The rest of the day we spent on the dock, enjoying the quiet and sun, reading our books.

For dinner, we drove up to Barcelona with the Mc Clures, to eat at Debros, a restaurant set right on a Lake Erie beach.  We sat outside on a comfortable evening, watched a beach volleyball game in process, as the sun set over Lake Erie, a different experience for us as we rarely get to see the sunset.  We decided on pitchers of beer and appetizers, so we had a couple orders of wings, some calamari and a artichoke and crab dish.  The wings were fine, the other two mediocre but edible.  The charm of this place was the lake, being outside and enjoying the sunset, not necessarily the food though I will go back.  The restaurant was virtually empty as 95% of the patrons were sitting outside.  The inside had the feel of a restaurant from the1980's, like Buds Carriage House, dark and almost claustrophobic, with a musty smell to it.  We stopped at Boxcar Barney's on the way home, for ice cream sundaes or cones, enjoyed them as we sat in our car at Mayville Park, and got home around 9:30, a good evening.  We watched some of the Republican convention.  Bromides, platitudes and lies for the most part, but the documentary on Mitt Romney's life was good, made him out to be a normal kind of guy which, no doubt he is, for someone with seven homes.  Sorry, I couldn't help but get that last zinger in.  I am glad the conventions over and do not look forward to next weeks Democratic Convention either.  As I. F. Stone so sagely put it: "Never believe a politician.  They all lie."  It's just that Republicans lie better.

Fifty Degrees and Clear

6:10

7:01

Farm on Mt Baldy Road, near Gorge

With Mike Cassell

Up early, at 6:10 to a ribbon of pink along the skyline, steam rising from the lake, another great day on the horizon.  Not much action though there is supposedly a fishing tournament going on.  The sun now rises to the right (south) of Long Point, on its journey towards Wells Bay, its winter home.  It's hard to believe August is almost history, fall about to begin.  A great night for sleeping with the windows open, the kind of nights I remember as a kid in Canada on a vacation with my parents, a memory I have never lost, perhaps embellished.

Early yesterday morning, Evie and I went for a short kayak ride over to Long Point, along its shore line and back, a smooth, windless morning, on a very green algae ridden lake.  Unfortunately, the algae bloom is still with us. Then, my buddy Ron Mc Clure and I took off to Westfield, to Mt. Baldy road, in our never ending quest to walk the Chautauqua Gorge.  We were searching for an access road or trail, some where in the Mt. Baldy area, so we would not have a six or seven hour walk, from the Westfield Water Station to Taylor Rd.  We parked our car at the farm about half way between Taylor and the Water Station, and started hiking into the woods, looking for a path in and down to the gorge.  We crossed fields, meandered through woods, found natural gas roads, paths, followed some of both and wandered around for close to two hours, getting near the gorge but nothing seemed just right.  Thus, Lewis and Clark failed in their expedition to find an easy path to the gorge, thwarting our plans.  It was a lovely walk, however,  thick woods, quiet, hills, not a person or vehicle, and only a slight twinge of fear that we might get lost though I had my trusty compass.  "To travel is better than to arrive."

We then drove to Westfield, to the Patterson Library, where I picked up a biography of Joseph Smith, the founder of the Mormon religion.  I hope to read it if I am in the mood and learn more about this only American grown religion.  We then went to the shoe shop in Westfield, a cool little place, with a very personable shoe maker.  He's going to reinforce my Keen sandals, and Ron's bringing in a couple of baseball gloves for him to restring.  A neat shop and guy.  We then drove down to Barcelona Harbor, on Lake Erie and ate outside at Jack's Drive Inn, one of Ron's favorite spots.  I had a fresh perch sandwich, a cup of chili and Ron had a dog with sauerkraut and soup.  We left home around 9:30 and did not get back till 2:00.  We failed in our expedition but enjoyed the going.

While I was  gone Evie made a beef stew and my favorite cookie, snicker doodles, so I had a treat waiting form me when I came home.  We both then spent the rest of the afternoon out on the dock.  It was a beautiful afternoon, cool and comfortable in the sun.  Around 4:30, our good friend, Michael Cassell, from Hudson, stopped by for a couple of hours.  He had just played in a US amateur qualifying tournament in Amherst, NY.  Unfortunately, he finished second and did not qualify.  We sat out on the dock and caught up on  his family and all the doings in Hudson.

We had the beef stew for dinner, a salad, and watched  Jon Stewart and Stephen Colbert, both honed in on the Republican Convention.  Jon Stewart is actually in Tampa.  Neither show was that funny as the convention had not really begun yet because of the weather so they did not have any really  good sound  bites.  Just wait till tonight.  O, yea, we also watched a  couple more episodes of Breaking Bad.  What will we do when we are finished, in about a week?

The Days Only Get Nicer

7:00

Heading Down the Chadakoin with Popcorn

Enjoying the Cruise

Blue Heron on the Chadakoin

Up later than usual, around 7:00, sun already blazing, filling the house with light.  A slight chill, 61 degrees and it looks like another glorious day on the lake, like yesterday. It's as if Monday's rain washed everything, making the world bright, shiny and new.

Yesterday, the Second Annual Big Adventure took place, a trip down Lake Chautauqua to the Chadakoin, then a leisurely boat ride down the river to the city of Jamestown Pier, called Mc Crae Park.  We went with the Mc Clures and like last year, it was a lovely day for a boat ride.  We left about 10:15, taking our time to enjoy the scenery, especially all the interesting houses on the west side of the lake as we made our way to Celeron, to the mouth/source of the Chadakoin River.  It is amazing to see how built up the shore line of Lake Chautauqua is, how little green is left though, from a distance, most of the shoreline looks lined with trees.  The cruise up  the river took close to a half hour, winding slowly along the snake like S turns.  It is hard to imagine steam boats ferrying passengers from Jamestown to spots on the lake and back, trying to pass each other on this river.  We stopped briefly at Mc Crae park, to use the facilities.  We, then, got out our lunch, and enjoyed our goodies as we traveled back up the river to the lake.  We then took our time going back on the east side, since we see little of this part of the lake, paying attention to the various neighborhoods and Points, like Point Stockholm,  Driftwood, Belleview and neighborhoods starting at the south end like Bonita, Fluvanna, Elmhurst, Sunnyside, Greenhurst, Griffiths, Driftwood, Belleview, Colburns, Lakecrest, Phillips Mill, Shore Acres, Oriental Park and Bemus Point.  I had not realized how many neighborhoods there were, how many different names.  For most of the trip, Linda and Evie sat on the front of the boat, in the fishing chairs, enjoying the sun, talking, and taking in the beauty of the lake on a sunny and warm day.  It was quite windy at times but if we went slow enough, it was no problem.  We didn't get home till 2:34, about four and a half hours on the lake, a record for us.  It was such a great day we didn't want it to end.

Later in the day, after enjoying some dock time, Evie and I went kayaking before dinner off to Long Point and then to Wells Bay, across a rough and windy lake, to the Long Point Bay, still green and algae ridden, then home.   Neither of us felt like fiddling much in the kitchen, so we had an easy dinner of kielbasi omelette's, fresh corn, salad, and home fries.  And, of course, three more episodes of Breaking Bad.

THE FIRST RULE: ROBERT CRAIS

I had not heard of Robert Crais until an NPR program which compared him to Raymond Chandler with his Joe Pike/Elvis Cole novels set in LA.  So, I picked one up, a break I thought between volumes of Amitra Ghosh's novels.  And to my delight, it was moose shit but delicious, as my buddy Mac would say.  An easy read, a great character in Joe Pike, reminiscent of Jack Reacher, a retired mercenary turned PI.  The story begins with a break in, a house killing of husband, wife and children.  No clear motive but the victim just happens to have been one of Joe Cole's buddies from his mercenary days.  Thus, he sets out, often in conflict with the police and FBI, to solve the case, which, of course, he does, leaving a trail of dead bodies, mostly Russian mafia, on the way.  Mid way, Elvis comes in to help back up Joe.  Like Reacher, he can be defenseless, as he meets three armed killers, yet with a swift kick, he can break an arm, recover a gun, and shoot all three.  Wow.  We do get a sense of the Russia Mafia's hold on parts of LA, their first rule: "a thief must forsake his mother, father, brothers and sisters.  He must not have a family---no wife, no children.  We are his family."  Needless to say, Joe unravels the complicated brotherhood, finds the killer of his friend Frank Meyer, without the help of police of course, and eliminates quite a few Russians on the way.  A quick read, fun, I am ready for another, The Second Rule.

Clearing and Cooler, Sunny Day to Follow

6:25

Black Locust trees

Blue Heron feeding

Painted rocks by Grandchildren

Floor of vinca in Long Point woods

Up at  6:20, to a painted sky, the sun still hidden by the hills, 63 degrees as I step outside to a desolate, quiet lake.  After a rainy Monday, every thing looks washed and clean, even the water looks clear when I walked out on the dock.  Right now, it's 7:15, the sun blinding me, as I move to get some coffee...a good day begins in earnest.

Yesterday as I mentioned was a lovely day in its own way, gray and wet,  raining off and on from late morning to evening, never too hard, perfect for sitting out on the front porch, reading, and listening to the rain fall.  I cannot remember the last time we have had a day like this, perhaps spring but I cannot remember it even then, certainly not this summer.  We thoroughly enjoyed it, the beauty of a gray and misty lake, empty most of the afternoon, nary a fisherman venturing out in the wet.

Before the rain came, Evie and I did manage a walk and kayak paddle.  We set out around 8:45, to a threatening sky but the weather map suggested the rain was not to come till around noon. So we paddled over to the Long Point Marina, parked our boats next to the water patrol, and walked up through the Long Point woods to Lake Road.  We then walked down to Bemus Point and back to the park, an  hour and a half walk, including the woods.  It was warm enough in the sun to covet the coolness of shade, especially in the woods.  As usual, I enjoyed looking at the Black Locust trees at the end of Lake Road, the Guardian trees, as well as along the walk down to the lake.  And the vinca looks spectacular in the sun/shade of the morning.  We got back to Woodlawn around 11:00 and soon a after, the showers began, continuing on and off all day.

Around 4:00, I went shopping in Mayville at Topps, picking up a few things for dinner.  Evie made a Thai chicken and broccoli stir fry, along with salad and, surprise, we watched three more episodes of Breaking Bad, as Walter and Jessie fall deeper and deeper into the depths of Dante's Inferno, Jessie joining Walt in the circle for murderers.

Clear and Cool, Rain to Follow?

7:48

Hydrangea

Evie's Garden, late summer

Up strangely to the roar of bass boats though it's a Monday morning and tournaments are usually on weekends.  Maybe I dreamed it.  It's 63 degrees, breezy, and nice and cool in our living room.  Later in the day, it's supposed to cloud up and a good chance that it will rain.  We need it.

Yesterday was an open Sunday, nothing we needed to do.  I started the day with a paddle down to Whitney Bay, surprised by how clear the water was down at that end.  A few people were up and lots of boats were out on a great morning, especially fishermen as there was a tournament.  Our major focus was the boat.  Evie worked on sewing together the split seams on the seats.  I then brought out the vacuum cleaner and Evie vacuumed and washed down the inside, and I washed the outside, including the bottom.  The water felt good, clearer than previous days, so hopefully the algae bloom is dissipating.  Late afternoon, Evie cut the lawn, and I went to the CI for a bike ride.  The gates are now open and though there was a closing ceremony last night, it already felt empty, with few people walking the streets other than what seemed to be tourists.  People obviously clear out quickly when the season ends.  I have to say I am happy to be able to take advantage of the CI without having to pay a gate fee, or go through a manned (womened) gate.

We had an easy dinner, tomato and cheese omelette's with bagels and watched more episodes of Breaking Bad. Last night's was a silly episode (no doubt symbolic!) where Walt and Jessie spend most of the episode trying to kill a fly, Walt arguing it would taint the meth.  The big change is in Skylar, Walt's wife,  as she is slowly getting sucked into the evil as well, accepting a role as money launderer, rationalizing it, like Walt, as necessary to pay for her brother in law's medical expenses.  Sounds familiar.

Hot and Humid Sunday Morning

6:45

Sandy Bottom

Boaters at Sandy Bottom

Up at 6:30 to sunshine filling the kitchen as I pour my coffee, a hazy, shiny lake, around 65 degrees.  I just heard on NPR that yesterday was a record setting high of 91 in Buffalo, not quite as warm here.  The high today is predicted to be 80 degrees here at the lake, comfortable if there's a nice breeze.

Yesterday was warm, obviously, though not unbearable as we sat outside quite a bit since there was a strong southerly breeze to cool you off.  Early morning, Evie put together the makings for a spinach borek, a Turkish delicacy, and baked it later in the afternoon out on the grill, which worked fine.  Around 9:00, we kayaked over to the Long Point Pavilion, beached our kayaks, put on our walking shoes and went for an hour walk through Long Point Park, quite warm in the sunshine, but nice and cool in the woods.  Unfortunately, when we hiked out to the tip of Long Point, an unpleasant odor, because of the southerly winds, of rotting weeds and algae bloom, detracted from our nature walk.

We spent the afternoon reading, relaxing, and Evie caught up on her phone calls.  At 4:00 I kayaked down to Sandy Bottom, an area frequented by boaters.  They tie their boats together and because of the sandy bottom, frolic and drink and party in the water, fun if you don't live next door I suppose.   At 6:00, we went out for another cocktail cruise, with the spinach boreks as our appetizers.  It reminded both of us of the kind we used to get in Turkey.  We cruised down to Maple Springs, across to Prendegast and back, with lots of boat traffic.   For dinner, we had grilled burgers and salad and watched three more episodes of Breaking Bad.  I think we are on the 25th episode out of a total of 46 so we have quite a few to go.

A Hazy and Warm Saturday Morning

6:34

Evie of the Lake

Up to the sound of bass boats at 6:30, the sun still hidden by the hillside, some color in the sky but mostly a pale light pink sky.  It's 60 degrees at the moment, perhaps getting into the 80's later in the day.  A empty day ahead, nothing I have to do, nothing planned.  Presque Isle is having a kayak paddle but it begins at 8:00, too early for me on a Saturday.  So, I know when Evie gets up, we will go for a paddle as the lake is calm right now, only a few fishing boats.

Yesterday, we went kayaking around 8:30 over to Tom's Point, then back along Wells Bay, at times paddling through viscous algae blooms, at times the water seemed clear,  no discernible reasons why one area was green, the other almost clear.  So it is on most of the lake.  I wish I new how long it lasts, whether you can swim in areas where it appears to be fairly clear.  I am surprised that the Post Journal or the Health Department don't have daily updates on the health of the lake, on whether locals and tourists should be  swimming or boating in certain areas.  Basically, very little is said unless the CI closes its beaches, which they have for the past week or two.  Then it gets put in the paper.

Late morning Evie went to Jamestown, to shop and return some things at the Mall.  I decided to bike, so I drove to Ron and Linda's, parked my car, and rode to Webb's, took their trail though the woods, a neat path that connects with Rails and Trails and continues on to Sherman, I think.  I rode out for about three miles, to Barrett Road, then headed back.  It took just over an hour to ride, a little tougher on the way out as its a gradual up hill but I never really had to stop.  And it's really neat in some sections, where the rail road had to be built up thirty or forty feel above the forest floor, to keep it fairly level, which makes any rail road trail great for biking, a bit boring perhaps for hiking because they are so flat.

We relaxed the rest of the afternoon until I got the hankering for tacos, so I drove to Mayville, to Tops, to get the makings, stopped at the Mayville Library to pick up a book for Evie, at Mc Clures to pick up Evie's sunglasses, left from the night before, then home about 5:30.  We then went for a booze cruise, over to Bemus and back, still warm on the lake unless we were moving fast enough to create a breeze.  A nice early evening to be on the lake.  We both devoured the tacos, just what we wanted, and watched the further decline of Walter White on Breaking Bad.  Things are not going to end well for Walt and  Jessie, I fear.  We keep thinking he's going to revert to the good guy he was at the beginning of the series, but he constantly compromises his morality, thus weakening the hold it has on him, if it ever did.  Is he Everyman and we, like him, could also fall prey to such evil?  Probably.

Summer Returns

6:52

Ladies of the Kitchen

Up later than usual, around 7:00 and Evie was already up, since 5:15.  We are switching our roles for a day.  It's a bright and shiny morning, still cool outside, 57 degrees, but they predict it will be in the 80's later in the day.  Time to keep the windows closed.

Yesterday was a busy day, starting with a kayak ride off towards Warner Bay, as we wanted to see how vast the algae bloom was.  There were thick pockets of algae off of the Long Point Beach but when I got to the homes beyond, the water was surprising clear, so the bloom is inconsistent, a heavy bloom in some areas, not so in others.  I wish I knew how long it lasts, when we can get back in the water.  Later in the day, we boated to the CI, where the water front was closed, lots of weeds and algae whereas farther down the lake, at Lighthouse Point, the water was clear.  Figure?

Around 10:30, we took the boat over to the CI, parked at their dock, and when in for a walk through the avenues.  It was a lovely day for a walk, though warm, and we just meandered up and down the streets, enjoying the front yard gardens, seemingly every house outdoing the next door neighbor.  Most yards have a good deal of shade, so there are lots of hostas, ivy, pachysandra, things that don't need lots of sun.  The hydrangea trees were the most spectacular, with their globes, a soft white and pink.  We walked for about an hour, went to the Smith Library, saw nary a soul we knew.  The CI ends it season Sunday, so we will be able to enjoy it more often once it closes.  It's difficult to believe that summer is ending.

Most of the afternoon was spent cleaning the back porch for Evie, taking off all the furniture, washing down the walls and floors, so that it now looks spiffy, no clutter, no mess, everything in its place...for a day or two!

Ron and Linda had invited us for dinner so, since it was a beautiful night, we took our boat down to their house, about a half hour ride, a lovely late afternoon cruise.  We had a great dinner, Italian appetizers, and a butterflied leg of lamb, marinated and cooked on the grill, one of our favorite meals.  Our salad was especially good, roasted eggplant slices, with a slice of tomato and mozzarella on top, with vinegar and oil.  A great meal.   We ate outside, as night descended, enjoying our food, catching up, until about 9:40 when we headed home.  It was a dark night, though a fair sized crescent moon hung over the west side of the lake and the stars were out.  We took our time going home, kept out in the center of the lake, used the Bell Tower, then Prendergast Point as navigational points, and got home around 10:30.  It was a perfect night on the lake, chilly enough to want a fleece even a blanket but not cold.  We wonder why we don't do this more often---perhaps we will.

Warming Up Alas

6:25

7:02

Up at 6:30, the sun still hidden behind the shoreline, somewhat hazy and still cool, 56 degrees though it's warming up each day, perhaps in the 80's by the weekend.  I am not looking forward to the heat but it happens every year as school starts.  In fact, that's one of my most vivid memories from my youth, the start of school in September, the heat and sun, the wish to just stay home and jump into Lake Erie.  It lasted only a few days but they were memorable, no air conditioning, a hot classroom, sticky jeans and shirt, and a new teacher. It's even worst in some areas  now as school starts in mid to late August, most likely so football can get their games in before the bad weather.  In Kansas City, where my grandchildren attend, they started around August 17th.

Bronze of Lucille Ball in Celeron Lake Park

Goose Creek outlet

Yesterday was another fine day on the lake, sunny and warm, with a constant breeze, enough so you might need a shirt on at the end of the dock.  Early on, I went into Jamestown, a quick visit to the dentist, then I stopped in Lakewood, parked my car, and took and hour bike ride, a circle, north to Goose Creek, back through Lakewood to Celeron, the statute of Lucy, then back to Lakewood, a cup of coffee at Ryders, and home.  It was a good ride, not much traffic along lake drive, fairly flat, with minimal riding on #394.   I will do it again.

When I returned home, Evie had cut the lawn again, so the lawn looked like a golf course, a rich green because of the rain we have had the last week or two.  Our yard, her garden, are really healthy looking, especially since Evie weeded most of Tuesday.  After spending time on the dock reading and fishing some, we both went for a short kayak ride, over to Long Point, to the bay, back to Wells Bay and home.  The algae bloom along the curve of Long Point Bay was like green paint, viscous, so that we just turned around because it was covering our paddles.  Once we got out into open water, where there was a wind, where the water was not stagnant, the water was better.  I remember this from last year as well, perhaps not as widespread as this year.  I am just not sure how long it will last, nor how unhealthy it is for someone to swim in it.  I know the CI' beaches have been closed off and on and have heard the rumor that some have gotten sick from swimming in the lake though I am not sure how this was proved.  I think I'll get out my rubber boots so I don't even have to step in the glop.  Hopefully, it will  be short lived.

For dinner, we made ribs, with sweet potato fries and cole slaw, and watched a fairly new movie called Bernie with Jack Black.  It's an off beat film, based on a true story.  It takes place in a small Texas town, where the assistant funeral director becomes the town's most admired and loved character, by his generosity, care, and good deeds.  He befriends the most detested person, a niggardly widow (Shirley Mac Claine), at first enjoys her company but then ends up being terrorized by her.  In a moment of insanity, he shoots her dead.  The town rallies behind him, making excuses for his actions, but the prosecutor takes the trial out of town, and he's convicted and sentenced to life in prison.  He's still there and this movie was made about him.  I would give it two stars, not as good as I had hoped but worth watching if you have nothing else to do.

Another Fine Morning and Day

6:47

Up at 6:45, just as the sun was beginning to peak over the tip of Long Point, on its journey south towards the winter solstice.  It's 57 degrees, chilly enough inside that I put on a fleece, too lazy to get my Ugg boots. Nothing planned for the day, so it's wide open for a bike ride, hike, kayak paddle or boat ride.

Yesterday was an easy day and with Evie back from Las Vegas, the yard and garden took on a polished, almost spit shined look.  For most of the day while I dawdled, Evie worked in her garden, overgrown from neglect over the past few weeks of family visits and travek.  The cool weather here, in contrast to the 100 degree weather in Las Vegas, drew here outside for most of the day.  There is nothing like an early fall like day here at Lake Chautauqua.   I did drive to Wegman's, to stock up on a few perishables, setting us up for the week.  The rest of the day I helped out Evie as needed, read, and helped get dinner ready, not much effort, as I had made an eggplant pasta the night before.

Evie's sister Laura's family, Pat, Laura, Leah, and Shawn Mullen

We began where we left off with the TV series, Breaking Bad, and are into it once again, with white knuckles, as Walt's wife, with a new baby, realizes that his hospital bills of close to a hundred thousand have been paid by some one.  She leaves him because she 'fears his secret.'  Jesse's girl friend has died of an overdose and he's in rehab.  Well it goes from here, I am not sure but it certainly does not bode well for Walt. Evie and I commented on how the acting, the story, in Breaking Bad is so good, yet so weak in Political Animals, the other series we had been watching.  Walt is amazing, as you agonize with him, torn between family and his attempts to keep his meth business a secret, yet laugh at the silly stereotypes and story in Political Animals.

THE GLASS PALACE: AMITAV GHOSH

I had heard about Ghosh before but he was recommended to me by my good friend Eric Gustavson, who taught with me at Western Reserve Academy for a number of years.  He liked Ghosh's SEA OF POPPIES enough, one of his most recent novels, to teach it to his seniors at Peddie School.  So, I picked up THE GLASS PALACE, one of his first novels to win some awards.

Ghost sets it in Burma, a country I know little about despite the fact that Ghosh grew up in India.  It's a historical novel, one that spans a good part of the 20th century. It begins in Mandalay, as a young indigent Indian, Rajkumar,  watches the King and Queen of Burma leave Rangoon, exiled by the power of the British Empire to a small town on the coast of India, Ratnagiri.  The book then follows the rise of Rajkumar before WW II, as he becomes teak king in Burma, despite the fact that he's a foreigner, an Indian.  And the usual animosity exisits between the indigenous Burman's and the upstarts from other countries, India, in Rajkumar's case, but also the British who have colonized Burma, made it another part of the empire to exploit.  It's also a love story, as Rajkumar marries one of the retainers of the King, one Dolly, an orphan who is a retainer to the Princess.  He goes in search of her, finds her in India, and convinces her to be his wife.  They have two children, Neel and Dinu.  Neel becomes his father's favorite, going into business with his father, marrying Manju, a twin of Arjun, both children of his mentor and friend, Saya John.  We see how Rajkumar, with the help of Saya John, becomes wealthy through the 1920's and 1930's, but then things begin to fall apart, as WW II looms.  Burma is torn apart by the war, Rajkumar loses all of his wealth, and Indians are torn between fighting with the British, against the Japanese, or with the Japanese, against their colonial masters, the British.  Arjun, Rajkumar's son in law, the symbol of this conflict, as he proudly joins the British army, one of the first Indians to become an officer, but as time goes by, he increasingly understands that he's been used by the British, a puppet, trained to be their seal.  He agonies over this conflict, eventually joining the Indian Revolutionary army along with a number of his officers, and join the Japanese to fight the British.  Arjun ends up dying after the war ends, as his group continues fighting the British even though the Japanese have surrendered.

When Rajkumar's son and daughter in law die in an accident, and his properties are confiscated, he and Dolly return to India, destitute, to live on the good will of Anu, a friend who has stood for everything that Rajkumar hated, women's rights, the end of colonial rule, things like that.  He is brought from the heights to the depths but finds solace in his granddaughter Jaya.  She becomes a professor and  in the late 1980's, she seeks out Rajkumar's long lost son, Dinu, who has lived in Burma through the aftermath of the war, the end of democracy in Burma, the rise of the communists and their attempts to destroy any semblance of freedom.  So the novel does span almost a hundred years, up to the millennium.  Jaya finds Dinu, and through his photographs, his passion, she is able to reconstruct much of her past.  The novel ends with the words of a charismatic Burmese woman, Aung San Suu Kyi, who is leading the anti communist faction: "But she is the only leader  I've ever been able to believe in. Why.  Because she's the only one who seems to understand what the place of politics is...what it ought to be...that while misrule and tyranny must be resisted, so too must politics itself....that it cannot be allowed to cannibalize all of life, all of existence.  To me this is the most terrible indignity of our condition----not just Burma but in many other places too...that politics has invaded everything...there is no escape from and yet what could be more trivial in the end?  She understand this...and only she...and this is what makes her much greater than a politician."  How true and what wonderful understanding of the world.  All our politicians should read this book.  On to SEA OF POPPIES.

Dense Fog and Cold, Ah Fall Is Coming

7:00

View of Niagara River from Whirlpool Park

Niagara Falls with Canada in background

The Falls

Niagara River from Bike/Hiking path

Bridge Over Niagara River

Up at 7:00, 52 degrees outside, lots of fog over towards Long Point, a couple of young kids fishing off of Pine Hill dock, just silhouettes in the morning sun. I can see the steam/fog, moving north, above the lake's surface.  No fishing boats to speak of, just the twittering of birds and NPR.  The start of a good day because Evie's back at the lake. It's been forty seven years.

Yesterday was a busy day, a beautiful day, a day for lots of driving, some biking, including a trip to Niagara Falls, the Galleria Mall, and the Buffalo airport.  Before heading towards Buffalo, I did a quick cleaning up of the house, making sure it was in order for Evie.  It took longer than expected as usual even though it was in good shape when I started.  O, yea, I also put together a eggplant and tomato pasta for our dinner tonight.  I left for Niagara Falls, bike in tow, around 11:45 and took #  90, then #75 to the #190 which took me across Grand Island and the Niagara River to the Deveaux Woods Park, a park adjacent to the Whirlpool Park, about four/five miles below the Falls. It took a little over two hours.  I parked my car and rode through the park, crossed a street, entered the Whirlpool Park, a mile or two from Niagara University, and found the trail/path which winds its way along the Niagara River, one way to the Falls, the other towards the University.  I wasn't sure what to expect and it was a combination of asphalt, some concrete, but mostly dirt trails, fenced in at times, but open at others.  At times, I had to leave the trail and ride along the road, as the pathway was clogged by branches or the gorge took it over.  I was surprised at how unkempt it was, how unused, especially compared to the wonderful path along the Letchworth Gorge along the Genesee River.  One would think it would be a path well traveled by tourists.  In fact, when I had to leave the path, to avoid a business set along the path, the workers had no idea there was a path along the Niagara River Gorge.  The views along the way were spectacular, of the rushing rivers, a brilliant blue with white foam. At times, riding was even a bit dizzying, especially when there was no fence, just a few feet of path between you and the couple hundred foot drop of the Gorge.  Needless to say, I rode slowly and carefully.

It took me a little over a half hour to get to the Falls viewing promenade, crowded with tourists at this time of the year.  The path continues up the river but I chose to cross a pedestrian bridge, over the Niagara, rushing violently towards the Falls, to the other side and another vantage point of the Falls, an area with shops, food stands, a park for enjoying the pleasure of sitting/viewing the falls.  I was surprised by the number of foreigners (I don't know why) visiting the falls, lots of Muslims, many women in chadors, surprising me.  Many Asians of course mixed in with fat, unhealthy, sloppily dressed Americans (stereotyping, sorry) filled out the tableaux.  I relaxed at a bench, ate my peanut butter and honey sandwich, drank some water, then headed back to Whirlpool Park.  On the way back, I ended up on a couple of paths I had missed coming to the Falls, one which would have taken me down to the water level.  Needless to say, I got back on the proper path to the Park.  There's a lot more to explore if you have the time.  I would have liked to have gone beyond the Falls for another five to ten miles.  Next time.

I then rode back to De Veaux Woods Park, passing one or two people along the path, an easy ride or walk though mostly wooded areas.  Because it was too early to go to the airport, I took the #290 south to # 90, to the Walden Galleria Mall, walked around there for about an hour, then picked Evie up at the Buffalo airport at 5:50, ten minutes late.  We drove home through Fredonia, stopped at Mc Donalds because we were hungry and did not want to cook when we got home.  We arrived home about 7:30 to an amazing view of our house, Evie's garden, the lawn and lake.  What a beautiful spot.  We watched another episode of Political Animals, a pretty bad show and went to bed early as Evie was exhausted by her trip.

Partly Cloudy and Evie Returns to the Lake

6:45

The Swamp

Up at 6:40, to a wet yard, as it rained last night, hard enough that I got up to make sure my kayak, which I had not secured strongly, was doing all right.  No problem, and the rain lasted less than a half hour if that long.  It's 56 degrees, much warmer than yesterday morning, some clouds off over Long Point as the sun attempts to squeeze in between them.  It sounds like a nice day though there is a threat of thunderstorms, later in the day.  I pick up Evie at 5:35 today in Buffalo.  I am hoping to go early, and explore the bike paths and areas around Niagara Falls before heading over to the airport, weather permitting.

Yesterday was a full day, as I went for a long kayak, around 8:00,  tugged by the sounds of U2's A Street With No Name, to the Italian Fisherman's floating dock, to find out it was Praise on the Lake Sunday.  I hung around the dock for about a half hour, as mega boats slowly pulled in off the floating dock and moored their boats to each other or alone.  The first half hour of the Praise was a youthful looking rock band, playing Christian rock music, then commenting on the lyrics, how Jesus will save your life, things like that.  No evidence of a minister at first but then I realized he was in the background, with a headphone on.  People seemed to enjoy the music, often clapping and moving to the rhythms, like they were at a concert.  I assume this is part of the lure, the music is much more moving to a young audience, let's say people my age and younger who were brought up on rock and roll.  The hillside was filled with parishioners, I assume from various domination and it was a great morning to be on the lake.  There were four or five other kayakers, either like myself, curious, or part of the church crowd. After four tunes, the minister began his sermon and I headed home.   It took me 35 minutes to paddle straight across the lake to the Fisherman, shorter than I thought.

When I got home, I had breakfast then drove off to Celeron with my bike, taking a bike ride along that end of the lake, past The Swamp, with its new front door, to Jamestown, to the park along the Chadakoin River in the downtown. I stopped at the Harbor Grill, the old Mariner's Pier Restaurant, to check out the menu and hours.  It's open seven days a week, for lunch and dinner, breakfast on the weekend.  The menu was pricey with most luncheon sandwiches 10 dollars, dinners in the 20's, not a cheap night out like the Seezuhr House.    Ron Mc Clure called me, as I was riding, to see if I wanted to go to the Stockton Tractor Show, so I cut my ride short, went to Wegman's, then home, and then to their house, where we drove to Stockton, about five miles outside of Mayville.

Handicapped Vet on his Bicycle Saw

Old Time Saw milling

Steam Driven Tractor

Separating the Wheat from the Chaff, Mechanically

Tractor Row

Ron Mc Clure with a 1948 Ford Tractor, the kind his family owns

Riding a Vintage lawnmower

The Stockton Antique Equipment Show was a fun way to spend an hour or two, an area crowded with people, mostly farm types, and lots of old tractors, from the 1920's upward, most in great condition.  The show featured the Leader Tractors, which were made in Chagrin Falls, Ohio (actually Auburn), a name I had never heard of.  There were tractor pulls, wheat threshing, saw milling, and weaving demonstrations, giving you some idea of how things were done in the past.  We missed the Parade of Tractors, which took place on Saturday.  Fortunately, I was with a tractor fanatic, Ron Mc Clure, who was able to inform me about all the kinds of tractors we were looking at, giving me some idea of how they advanced mechanically over the years, the most important being a mechanical lift, found only on Ford tractors until the 1960's because of a patent.  His family had a 1948 Ford tractor, still running, which he uses to pull a bush hog on his family's farm.  There were lots of people there, all ages, lots of food stands, a flea market atmosphere in some ways, lots of farm equipment from the early part of the 20th century, and it gave you a good sense of how difficult life most have been for a farmer before the invention of these machines.

I went home, relaxed on the dock, finished my book, The Glass Palace, then made a delicious clam linguine dinner, a recipe from my Mom.  I watched some of the NFL game, then went to bed around 10:00.